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Thread: Engine Oil: what's best?

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  1. #1

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    Victa twin thinks this is a true hydraulic tensioner, that runs off the engine oil pressure. (more common in larger engines and most engines that use chain driven cams.)

    But in this case, the cam belt tensioner has its own internal supply of fluid, it has nothing to do what oil you run in the engine. It's more like a spring loaded hydraulically dampened cam tensioner.

    Final word on this thread: Best oil is clean oil, in the viscosity range specified by the Manufacturer.

    /end thread.
    Last edited by MadMax; 27-08-2013 at 08:49 AM.

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by MadMax View Post
    ..Final word on this thread: Best oil is clean oil, in the viscosity range specified by the Manufacturer.

    /end thread.
    I dont think so MadMax. The bit of research i did really pointed to full synthetic as being better, because its more consistent in its properties than hybrid or mineral.

    As for brands, I'm still happy with the Penrite HPR.
    Also, a few members here claimed poor experiences with Magnatech.

    Whats obviously just as important is how frequently you change the oil out. I'm currently working on a 10k cycle which i think is a good mix of performance/cost.

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    Quote Originally Posted by KWAWD View Post
    I dont think so MadMax. The bit of research i did really pointed to full synthetic as being better, because its more consistent in its properties than hybrid or mineral.
    Yep, synthetic is better. How do I know? Lent my son a Sigma with a brand new motor (full rebore, new pistons, rings, crank grind, etc) with Mobil 1 in it. Block cracked on him, welsh plug popped out, but he drove it 15 km further on with no coolant. Didn't seize, but the head cooked and there was a nice gap between the block and head when I got to it. Another dead Sigma motor! I think that was about the time I was ready to give up on Sigmas.
    Since then I haven't bothered with synthetic oil, why have a perfectly good engine in many years time when the car dies for a different reason? Now, if you are running a Taxi 50 to 100 thousand km per year, it's a different story.
    Last edited by MadMax; 27-08-2013 at 12:53 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by MadMax View Post
    Yep, synthetic is better. How do I know? Lent my son a Sigma with a brand new motor (full rebore, new pistons, rings, crank grind, etc) with Mobil 1 in it. Block cracked on him, welsh plug popped out, but he drove it 15 km further on with no coolant. Didn't seize, but the head cooked and there was a nice gap between the block and head when I got to it. Another dead Sigma motor! I think that was about the time I was ready to give up on Sigmas.
    Since then I haven't bothered with synthetic oil, why have a perfectly good engine in many years time when the car dies for a different reason? Now, if you are running a Taxi 50 to 100 thousand km per year, it's a different story.
    Wasn't a HM engine was it?
    About 5 or 6 years ago I had a recoed Diesel Toyota 2.8 that seized. Similar thing. Popped a welsh plug, cooked it and totally scored the bores. In fact 2 pistons had cracked gudgeon pin piers the motor got so tight . The cylinder head was stuffed. A massive crack in it.
    So I get the sump off and here's the thing - none of the bearing caps matched the connecting rods at all. We're not just talking mismatched from the same engine, we're talking from a different 2.8 engine entirely. Worse, one of the connecting rods was so poorly treated there was a big knick in the machined bearing surface of the big end that pushed into the back of the bearing shell, that then scored its crankshaft big end journal leaving a circular gouge in it. This was not the cause of the seizure but still a DISGUSTING lack of competence or care. I wonder who they have there assembling motors? They must've gone to the monkey enclosure at the zoo for their day release labour supply. One wonders if they checked the ring gaps or the piston clearances?? The motor was only 9 months old.

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    Cheers for that edification MadMax!

    I have to admit I have never had anything to do with Magnas professionally. Belt was done by previous owner very recently so February at 145000kms (I've only had the car since March and it now has 156kms on it) but obviously not the tensioner. It was all done for the Roadworthy as the rocker covers and cam seals were leaking and the belt wasn't changed ever. So based on what you say re the tensioner, the Penrite is probably OK after all. I have noticed the rattling doesn't occur when it is warmer, so maybe I should put a new tensioner in it. We'll see.
    Also, mine has never had any tappet noise when cold (or any other time) in the 6 or so months I've owned it.

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